Rick Poole, who grew up in his family’s pie and mash shop in London, is hopeful that a new campaign to secure protected status for the traditional Cockney dish will ensure its survival for
generations to come. His shop, M. Manze, is the oldest pie and mash establishment still operating today, a cornerstone of East London’s culinary heritage.
The dish, consisting of a pie filled with minced beef, served with mashed potatoes and parsley liquor, has been a favorite of East Londoners since the 19th century. Originally, the pies were stuffed with eels, a cheap and abundant resource from the River Thames at the time. While eel-filled pies have largely been replaced by minced beef, jellied eels remain a popular side dish in many shops.
“It gives you a good feeling knowing you’re keeping this tradition alive for over 120 years,” said Poole, now 61 and the director of M. Manze. The business, which his family took over in 1902, includes several locations, including its historic Tower Bridge flagship, known for its original green-tiled interiors.
Poole believes gaining protected status for pie and mash would safeguard the authenticity of the dish, preventing others from falsely claiming to follow the traditional methods. Britain, like the European Union, grants protected status to certain foods and drinks, guaranteeing their authenticity through defined recipes or regional origins. Examples include Cornish pasties, Melton Mowbray pork pies, and Blue Stilton cheese.
Supporters, including advocates from the Modern Cockney Festival, are urging the government to classify pie and mash under the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) scheme. Unlike geographic labels, TSG focuses on ensuring products are made using traditional recipes or methods.
Although pie shops have their own unique variations of the dish, environment minister Daniel Zeichner has noted that all producers would need to agree on a standardized recipe to secure TSG recognition.
Andy Green, founder of the Modern Cockney Festival, emphasized that the protected status would provide shop owners with pride in their role as cultural custodians while potentially increasing the dish’s global recognition. Green hopes for a decision on the status in the coming year.
Emma Harrington, Poole’s daughter and a company director at M. Manze, highlighted the deep connection Londoners have with the dish. “It’s in their blood and their heritage,” she said, underscoring its significance to generations of locals.
For Poole and others in the industry, securing protected status would not only ensure the preservation of this historic dish but also bolster its cultural and culinary legacy for years to come. Photo by Goddard's Pies Limited, Wikimedia commons.