Online fast-fashion retailer Shein has assured UK lawmakers that it does not use Chinese cotton in products sold in its largest market, the United States. The company stated on Friday that its

contract manufacturers are required to source cotton exclusively from approved regions outside of China.

Shein’s general counsel for Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, Yinan Zhu, provided written evidence to a British parliamentary committee, listing approved cotton sources. These include Australia, Brazil, India, the United States, and, in limited cases, select countries in Europe, the Middle East, Africa, and Southeast Asia.

Zhu emphasized that this sourcing policy ensures compliance with the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, a U.S. law aimed at preventing products made with forced labor in China, particularly in the Xinjiang region, from entering the American market.

Shein has faced allegations of using cotton from Xinjiang, where the Chinese government has been accused of human rights abuses and forced labor targeting Uyghur Muslims. Beijing has denied these claims.

Although Shein operates in 150 markets worldwide, it did not clarify whether its cotton sourcing restrictions for U.S. products also apply to items sold in other regions, including the UK, where the company is preparing for an initial public offering (IPO) in London.

"We do not prohibit the use of Chinese cotton in our products specifically where such use would not contravene the laws and regulations of the jurisdictions in which we operate," Zhu wrote.

To verify the origins of the cotton in its products, Shein uses isotopic testing through Oritain, a firm that specializes in identifying the source of materials. Testing conducted in 2024 found that 1.3% of the cotton used in Shein’s products came from unapproved regions, though Zhu did not disclose which regions were involved.

During a parliamentary hearing on January 7, Zhu declined to answer lawmakers’ repeated questions about the potential use of Chinese cotton, drawing criticism from committee chair Liam Byrne. Byrne has since expressed concerns to the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) and the London Stock Exchange, which are involved in Shein's IPO approval process.

Byrne plans to send a follow-up letter asking whether Shein ships products containing Xinjiang cotton to the UK, according to a spokesperson for the Business and Trade Committee. The spokesperson noted that Shein’s written evidence failed to address this question.

In response to Byrne’s concerns, the CEO of the London Stock Exchange stated in a letter that she could not comment on specific companies but highlighted the enhanced transparency and discipline required for companies seeking to enter UK public markets.

Similarly, FCA Chief Executive Nikhil Rathi explained in a separate letter that IPO prospectuses undergo rigorous scrutiny to ensure full disclosure of legal risks, including background checks on the company, its management, and its board. However, Rathi did not specifically mention Shein in his remarks. Photo by DMCGN, Wikimedia commons.